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Imagine yourself at
a kosher, vegan, Chinese restaurant. Now, imagine the food having
any hint of flavor--'cuz you ain't gettin' it here. It's amazing how
the words soy, gluten and curd taste exactly the way they sound. Ah,
hamburger. It sounds meaty and filling. It is meaty and filling. Wheat
gluten in a bean curd reduction sauce with goopy soy chunks sounds
like something that just crawled out of the primordial ooze. The only
food we can recall with less form and discernable texture is sea urchin,
which tastes a bit like post-nasal drip. With all the nice little
cafes on Montague Street, please skip this depressing, upstairs yuck
fest and enjoy something fashioned from a chicken or cow. [MF]
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