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"You won't have to shove bamboo
shoots under my fingernails to make me come back here!," exclaims
one happy patron on his way out. Be dog-gone sure to try the grilled
sirloin, which looks as if it dropped out of a donkey's ass but tastes
like it was delivered to earth by the hand of Buddha himself. Charlie
used to own the night -- now he runs the best Vietnamese restaurant
on the Upper East Side. [MF, KF]
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