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Ono is apparently Japanese
for "eh." Or perhaps it's Meatpacking District lingo for "style over
substance." Quite honestly I was too busy looking around at the funky
space to pay attention to what I was eating. Our meal was mostly little
plates of various skewered things with dipping sauces and sushi. The
unfortunate thing for purveyors of raw fish in this town is that there
are so many good ones at reasonable prices that you really have to
do something different to make yourself stick out from the crowd.
So Ono has the cool, high-ceilinged modern room, with its separate
round bar out front and its open sushi chef pen lining the side of
the dining room. That's a step in the right direction, but it's there
where things that make it special kind of stop. I'm not saying they
don't try, and I'm not saying any of it's bad--in fact some of it
is quite tasty--but I just wasn't feeling that certain special something
that comes with a new foody find. I could see this as a decent place
to bring your folks when they come in from out of town (except my
folks, who come from the land of starlets and sushi, Los Angeles),
as the joint has to be very New Yorky and flashy, but not necessarily
the crazy fish factory that other, more drab restaurants in Manhattan
might be. [MF]
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