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This was like the little
Mexican chain that could. In the mid-nineties nothing could stop the
crowds from packing these joints, margarita in hand and Yankee fever
in their hearts. Now, over a decade later, the tarnish is starting
to show. The Upper East Side locations--once the holy kingdom of young,
yuppie boozing and tortilla chip gargling--have shuttered and faded
into UES non-glory. The other locations, while still crowded some
nights, are holding on out of sheer human desperation for the almighty
fiesta. It's in Americans' natures to crave salty food, endless baskets
of fried corn and alchohol that basically tastes like the inside of
a plant. While Mary Ann's is as authentic as a Carrot Top wacky dollar
bill, it has managed to hang in there by its fingernails and serve
sub-par Tex-Mex mush for years. Also known for their slow service
and alchohol-free margaritas, it's a wonder anyone still inhabits
these places. And then we fall back on the American fascination with
the fiesta. Food at Mexican joints is secondary. Pitchers of margaritas
are a communal good time, and everyone knows that a Mexican beer ordered
at a Mexican restaurant tastes better! In fact, we had the perfect
scenario the night we came to this location. We had a relatively large
group of folks who had been drinking quite a bit all evening and were
just looking for something warm to stuff in our gobs while still being
able to embibe more alchohol in a loud, loud way. My shredded chicken
in a soggy tortilla was just fine. The lake of runny refried beans
and slightly underdone Mexican rice was all that I had come to expect.
But for some reason I just didn't care. I was having fun with the
group I was with. I was drinking Bohemias and eating relatively warm
food that stuck to my ribs. We closed out the place, and left as they
practically grabbed our chairs from us to stack on the table. And
still I didn't care. I was numb and full and content in the fact that
the old standbye would be around for at least another night. [MF]
Other Locations:
Mary
Ann's (East Village)
Mary Ann's (Upper East
Side)
Mary Ann's (Upper East
Side II)
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