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The concept behind this
place is actually kinda cool. Charlie Palmer (who I originally thought
was that old golfer with the funny pants and the awful vineyard) has
created a small, neighborhood restaurant that offers gourmet food
for a $25 prix fixed price. It takes the guessing and anxiety out
of a night out. The wine list is also sensible, with all bottles either
$25 or $35. Now you don't have to look like a total cheap-ass when
ordering the second-cheapest bottle on the menu for a whopping $65.
The space itself is a warm, modern mixture that is more downtown than
most of the small joints on the UWS--if not a little Ikea-like with
its clean, light wood and funky mosaic tiles. The food itself is new
American meats, fish and chicken with some nice, savory sauces. It's
not cutting-edge or particularly memorable in the scheme of things,
but was certainly decent and well-prepared. I seem the recall the
dessert being the best part of the meal, but had a very pleasant time
hanging out enjoying the atmosphere. While it is a tad generic--as
the name might suggest--we can certainly recommend it for those of
you looking to break out of the Italian and Mexican doldrums. [MF]
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