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Mr. Hipster knows about
as much about Southern food as the Pope knows about making a marriage
work. The South itself is a big black hole of huh as far as he is
concerned. Because of this, he couldn't tell the difference between
good, authentic Southern soul food and the Bayou Seafood Gumbo with
andouille sausage at the Red
Lobster in the Carousel
Mall in Syracuse (which looks like it has vacated its old spot
since I last saw in 1994). To The King, Jezebel was good. The fried
chicken was moist, the potatoes were fluffy, and nobody asked me to
eat black eyed peas or okra. The place itself is decorated like an
old, Southern bordello, complete with draped scarves, a piano player
and old fashioned chandeliers, tables and porch swings. Years ago,
The King ate at Jezebel's now defunct sister restaurant, Georgia,
in Los Angeles. That menu was pretty much the same thing--packed with
high cholesterol, highly caloric grub. It's actually been a few years
since we've been here, and rumor has it that the service has gone
down the tubes, but Denzel and Bill Duke looked satisfied with their
evening when we were there (although, as part owners, I'm sure they
were smiling at the fact people were shelling out some serious cash
for food that used to be considered the furthest thing from gourmet.)
[MF]
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