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There is a breed of
burger out there that can only be described as the NYC "health"
burger. It's not because it's terribly healthy, nor terribly New York-y;
it's a species of patty that I've only experienced at the gourmet
burger chains in Manhattan. Packed tight in an almost meatball (like
your friend's great grandma's, not the light things you get in restaurants)
formation, the burgers (in this case turkey) are like little nuggets
of flavor. The first thing that hits you is the size of the thing.
Similar in girth and about 1/3 the height of a Hostess cupcake, I
could hear my stomach growl with sadness as I spied the tiny meal
in front me. How could a man of my enormity (and I would be huge in
comparison if I were somehow made a second grader in my current body)
possibly be satiated by this little morsel and a smallish thing of
fries? Impossible! But this is where the burger density came in. The
turkey burger was not only dense, but packed with a little too much
garbage for my taste (turkey tastes like nothing if you don't put
anything in it). Despite this, the damn thing was pretty tasty, and
the fries decent. Unlike its almost direct competition, Better Burger,
their stuff holds up well during delivery, especially their fries,
which are actually fried in canola oil (and not lamely air-baked).
I suppose I should feel extra extra-specially good about the fact
that all their meat is supplied by small family-run farms and their
poultry by name organic suppliers and they try to be as green as possible
with their restaurants, but honestly I’ll take a bootleg sick
kangaroo burger made in a fire burning coal factory full of child-laboring
Nazis if the end result is decent. [MF]
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