Golden Chicken & Ribs
Address: 604 9th Ave.
Phone: 212/245-8790
Neighborhood: Hell's Kitchen/Clinton
Cuisine: Rotisserie
golden chicken There are some places that really shouldn't have tables in them--places not fit for human eat-in consumption. Golden Chicken is one of those places. Grease hangs in the air like heavy smoke. Dirt crowds the corners (real or imaginary). The smell of cooking flesh overwhelms the senses. Sounds yummy, no? While the concept of rotisserie chicken and ribs is good in theory, it is unfortunately butchered in practice by low-rent joints like this. The chicken is shriveled and dry, the ribs stunted, and the sides less than fresh. The only way we can recommend this place is if you take it to go and forget your food on the way out. [MF]

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