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There's a certain je
ne sais squawk about Chinese Mexican food. Everything tastes vaguely
of chicken fat and industrial grease. It has that weird mass-produced
taste despite it being clearly cooked by the tooth-sucking, volume-control-challenged
brother-in-law of the nice woman behind the counter who takes your
order by number from the big board above the take-out counter. It
sounds familiar, and like some other cheap, greasy ethnic food place,
but I just can't put my finger on it... I stay in relatively safe
territory and stick to the chicken quesadilla and taco al carbon,
which is basically a strangely opaque-ish tortilla wrapped around
some chunks of very tasty beef. No frills here, no way. Going with
the theory that anything dipped in grease will at least taste good
going down, this joint serves it hot, cheap, fast and tasty. It's
honestly not like eating Mexican food at all--much in the same way
Taco Bell isn't eating Mexican or McDonald's
doesn't really constitute eating a real burger. They are a separate
and unique eating experience in and of themselves. Sometimes I don't
want a giant mom burger or even a hearty burrito from my neighborhood
Tex-Mex joint. Sometimes I want the microwaved thing that if you really
think about it has no business calling itself meat, or in this case,
the hybrid weirdness of Chinican or Mexinese grub that not only gets
the job done in a pinch, but leaves you wanting more. Oh, don't expect
the craphole of a storefront to win any design or cleanliness awards--germaphobes
and decor snobs beware. And be sure to, for your gut's sake, take
a break from the place for a few weeks if you walk in and the same
nice lady behind the counter tells you your order from memory before
you even know it. Scary. [MF]
Other Locations:
Fresco
Tortillas (Hell's Kitchen 2)
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