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R, TO
314B W 39th St. [multiple locations], 212/221-5849
There's a certain je ne sais squawk about Chinese
Mexican food. Everything tastes vaguely of chicken fat and industrial
grease. It has that weird mass-produced taste despite it being clearly
cooked by the tooth-sucking, volume-control-challenged brother-in-law
of the nice woman behind the counter who takes your order by number
from the big board above the take-out counter. It sounds familiar,
and like some other cheap, greasy ethnic food place, but I just
can't put my finger on it... I stay in relatively safe territory
and stick to the chicken quesadilla and taco al carbon, which is
basically a strangely opaque-ish tortilla wrapped around some chunks
of very tasty beef. No frills here, no way. Going with the theory
that anything dipped in grease will at least taste good going down,
this joint serves it hot, cheap, fast and tasty. It's honestly not
like eating Mexican food at all--much in the same way Taco Bell
isn't eating Mexican or McDonald's
doesn't really constitute eating a real burger. They are a separate
and unique eating experience in and of themselves. Sometimes I don't
want a giant mom burger or even a hearty burrito from my neighborhood
Tex-Mex joint. Sometimes I want the microwaved thing that if you
really think about it has no business calling itself meat, or in
this case, the hybrid weirdness of Chinican or Mexinese grub that
not only gets the job done in a pinch, but leaves you wanting more.
Oh, don't expect the craphole of a storefront to win any design
or cleanliness awards--germaphobes and decor snobs beware. And be
sure to, for your gut's sake, take a break from the place for a
few weeks if you walk in and the same nice lady behind the counter
tells you your order from memory before you even know it. Scary.
[MF]
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Additional
bars/restaurants nearby:
Hell's
Kitchen/Clinton
Other restaurants with similar cuisine:
Mexican/Tex-Mex
Other locations:
Fresco
Tortillas (Hell's Kitchen 2)
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Symbols - AM=Abbreviated Menu | B=Bar
| BF=Serves Bar Food | BWL=Bowling | C=Cabaret | D=Dancing
| ED=Exotic Dancers | K=Karaoke | LM=Live Music | R=Restaurant
| TO=Take Out Only | VR=Velvet Rope | WS=Watch Sports Here
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