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I knew it was the place
the second I saw its short set of steps up to the front door. I had
been here before in one of the space's former incarnations. It was
for an oddball work thing back in like 1997 for a job I had already
left. I just "swung by" (nobody just swings by TriBeCa unless they
live there) to say hello to the gang of mostly sober former hooligans
who were my bosses and co-workers. That reminds me of that great line
from Singles, "I just happened to be nowhere near your neighborhood
..." But I digress. I have very little recollection of anything but
the space, as I was kind of banished from the adult table to go stand
at the bar with a production assistant and the intern (who sounded
remarkably like Fran Drescher). Whatever that was, this Centrico version
is much better. It inhabits the same cool, high-ceilinged, loft-like
room that includes both the dining area and the bar. The food is supposed
to be Mexican, but is more--to coin a genre--new Meximerican. I mean
last time I checked, short ribs weren't a traditional Mexican dish.
Of course the only place I'm checking is my own brain, so who the
hell knows. Whatever the case, the ribs were awesome, the drinks were
strong and the price was right. Oh, and the most important thing:
the guacamole was guacalicious. [MF]
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