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If I wanted bland, watery
home cooked food, I'd defrost something from my grandmother's freezer.
The woman freezes soup for God's sake! This narrow UES Italian is
patrolled by the Carino matriarch, who we can only assume is the mastermind
behind such delicacies as manicotti with thin, oozy tomato sauce and
mushy eggplant parmigiana topped with cold cheese and non-existent
flavor. This elderly guru appears from the kitchen to glean compliments
from the guests and leave the smell of geriatric linen in her wake.
We hate to disparage the elderly, but this gimmick is hardly going
to make the marginal food taste any better. With a neighborhood filled
with decent, cheap Italian, you'd be better off skipping the "home
made" personality of this place and really staying home with
a nice Stouffer's frozen lasagna. [MF]
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