
 |
Ben's is more in the
vain of great Florida Jewish delis of my relative youth, Pumpernick's
and Wolfie Cohen's Rascal House (both of which were within old-person
driving distance of my grandma's condo in Hallandale), than a New
York Jewish deli. You have sit-down service, high ceilings and the
communal air of hardening arteries. There's also the "tableslaw" and
bowl of pickles to send your sodium levels through the roof. But while
those old school Florida delis were Jewish, I don't know that they
were kosher, as Ben's is. That basically means--for all you Jesus-lovers
out there--that you ain't getting any cheese on your corned beef or
shrimp cocktail appetizers. Luckily the meat they serve is so damn
tasty, you need nothing but the lean pastrami on a couple slices of
marble rye. They don't get all silly like Stage Deli and pack it with
more meat than a human being could possibly eat over the course of
a week, but give you just enough that you're not starving afterwards,
and little enough that you don't feel like a giant hazir. It's actually
not a bad place to grab lunch with a co-worker, or sit and casually
dine on surprisingly decent meat. [MF]
|